The next stage for the neck is to have the Luminlay side dot markers fitted. Quick demo below..
Next, I move on to every luthiers least favourite job.. radius sanding the fretboard. I'm using a compound radius for this fretboard, from 12'' to 16''. I start off with radius blocks, followed by a levelling beam.
With the fretboard now at it's final thickness, I can calculate the correct depth for the neck pocket. It's routed out using an MDF template and bearing guided cutter.
After a quick test fit, the pickup cavities are also routed.
It's then time to drill the holes for the bridge. The Schaller Hannes bridge comes with a clear template, which makes marking out the hole locations straight forward.
The recess for the string ferrule plate is routed so it sits flush with the body. I preferred the look of black ferrules for the bolts, so I chose to use some of the neck bolt ferrules that I use on my bolt-on instruments, instead of the gold ones that came with the bridge.
The neck is shaped using my usual combination of rasps, a spokeshave, sandpaper and elbow grease.
It's then time to do some fretwork. The fret wire is prepared and cut slightly oversize. As this neck has binding, the tang of the fret wire must be removed. I use some nippers to remove the majority of the tang, and then tidy it up using a small diamond file.
The fret slot is bevelled slightly with a small triangle file, this helps stop the wood from chipping out should the fret have to be removed for a re-fret in the future.
The frets are hammered in, and then once the ends have be trimmed and bevelled, I wick a drop of CA glue under each fret end to prevent them from lifting, and to seal the slot from moisture.